Mulan- Quick Look

"Upscale" Asian (read overpriced). Pei Wei or PJ Chang's wannabe- and who'd want to be either! Fancy decor but boring and expected menu choices.

Despite the exclamation point and all caps, none of the items designated HOT! on the menu were remotely spicy.

RATING: 2 BITES

50 Neverland Drive
Lewis Center, OH 43035
740-548-3861

Pizza House- Bye Bye American Pie

While running errands at lunchtime I found myself nearby this North Columbus standby, which I last visited (and enjoyed) 10 years ago.

At that time, they had won several "Best Pizza in Columbus" awards and my experience was positive. They featured a very airy, thin and light crust which is a hard thing to find in these parts. It didn't travel well for take out but served at the table, it was one of my favorites in Columbus.

I'm not sure what changed- the recipe or my aging taste buds- but this time around was a whole new ball of waxy mozzarella.

Certainly the location near the train tracks, the cinderblock building and the tacky interior have not changed. Neither has the menu, that I could tell. It lists the same old red sauce and pasta and pizza with assorted toppings you can find in every Italian-American joint from here to Hoboken. Not that that's a bad thing. A great red sauce is a thing of beauty and the straightforward but impeccably prepared pizzas like the ones found at Lombardi's in New York or Patsy's in New Haven, CT are the stuff of legends.

Of course everyone has a favorite style of pizza, that's part of the fun. Personally, I'm a Tommy's guy, but I appreciate the debate comparing Rotolo's, Iocanos, Plank's, Mellow Mushroom, Panzera's, Rubino's, etc., etc.

What's not debatable, at least in my mind, is the decline of Pizza House. My Pee Wee pizza (a personal sized lunch special) was frighteningly close to a microwave pizza from 7-11 in texture and taste. It was greasy, the cheese was rubbery (I'm guessing they use part-skim mozzarella) and the sauce was dark, almost brown, with a jar of Ragu-like sweetness. Worst of all, the crust had none of the characteristics of homemade, even though the web site claims they make their dough fresh every day. It was nice and thin but it had a texture like it was cooked in the pan with no blisters or flakiness. It made me think of a twist on the DiGiorno TV commercials, only the line would go: "Is this a frozen pizza? No, it's Pizza House!"

The side salad of tasteless Iceberg lettuce, white bread croutons and bottled Italian dressing, did nothing to placate my dismay.

They were quite busy, so there seems to be a following. Service was pleasant, if not slow, considering I chose a lunch special. The price was reasonable- $6.95 for a 7" mini-pizza, salad and drink.

Looking for something good to write about, I scoped out the pasta dishes being served to the other tables. They did not appear to feature home made pasta and if they contain the same sauce as the pizza, there would be more bad news.

So my search for the best pizza in Columbus continues- and currently ends- not at Pizza House but at my house. 

RATING: 2 BITES

 

747 East Lincoln Ave.
Columbus Ohio 43229
614-885-3121

Knead- Half Baked Concept, Well Done Food

Boy, is this place confusing.

Start with a logo and graphics reminiscent of Blimpie, add a faceless, generic brick building with a sterile decor of carpet squares and a drop ceiling and then do business under a name that has little or nothing to do with the food served here, and you have a marketing mess of a place.

Let's start with the name. When you eat at a restaurant called Knead, with a slogan that reads "Where all things are possible with dough", you kind of expect some emphasis on bread, or at least baking. Oddly, you'll find none of that at this popular Short North diner.

In fact, we were unable to find bread on the menu and none was brought to the table. They do serve pizza and the sandwiches come with buns (not made in-house and pretty ordinary), so technically there are  items offered made from flour and yeast but I found this very strange and more than a bit disingenuous.

The interior is another fake out. If you were to walk by this place and look in, you'd think it was fast food, with its bright red walls and the total lack of charm or warmth. I guess the theme is what they call "Modern Diner" but the concept is really about high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and care in preparation and this is not reflected in any of the trappings. I expected to find a rustic barn but found a strip mall.

Luckily, the food itself brings the concept to life, and in the end, that's what really matters. 7 out of 8 meals at our table where well-received and much of the fare being brought out to other tables looked good enough to snatch right off the tray.

I ordered the Tasty Tacos, which are made from organic Berkshire pork , corn tortillas, red cabbage slaw, jack cheese and Knead sauce, which is an excellent chili-based hot sauce with a sweet after taste. I ordered two more ramekins of the sauce to pass around it was so good. While I am by no means a health food or organic guy per say, I do believe organically fed livestock and fresh ingredients make a big difference in taste and these simple tacos bore that out. The pork was succulent and rich and could have stood alone as an entree without the tortilla and garnishes.

Friends at the table ordered the Cuban Sandwich (more Berkshire pork with ham, pickles, Amish Swiss cheese, and aioli on grilled pagnotta bread), Walleye Tacos ( a great use of the Ohio favorite fish), The Mother Clucker (a killer house specialty with Gerber chicken, cured bacon, roasted Poblano chile, aioli on a brioche bun) and assorted burgers made from Pat La Frieda beef and an interesting hodgepodge of toppings. The lone disappointment was the Skinny Chick (surprise!)-  a low cal chicken sandwich that was wimpy and dry.

A side dish worth mentioning are the French fries. Thinly hand cut and fried in peanut oil, they were addictive and among the best I've ever tasted- and that includes the real deal in France and Belgium. Try them with the fennel-infused house catsup.

A surprising, but welcome, aspect of Knead is the emphasis on booze. I didn't expect this in a diner. They offer an excellent assortment of micro brewed beers and a dizzying (literally) array of cocktails, some classic, some retro, some kooky, like the Jalapeno Hemingway (rum, peppers, lime juice, sugar), Black Eye (101 Wild Turkey, Benedictine, Organic Black Cherry and sweet & sour) and dozen more interesting variations of Manhattans, Old Fashions, Gin Fizzes, etc.

Service was prompt but ill-informed (both servers were unable to tell us what the ingredients were in the previously mentioned "Knead Sauce", even after asking the kitchen!) and the prices were more than fair, given the high quality of the food. Our tab for 2 with several expensive drinks each, was $59.

Being a cheapskate, that is reason enough for me to return and I look forward to trying the pizza, enchiladas and something enticingly called "Lou's Meat Sandwich". And maybe some home made bread?

RATING: 4 BITES

 

505 N. High St.

Columbus, OH 43215

614-228-6323

Mi Li Cafe- Souped Up Vietnamese

With the demise of the excellent Ha Long restaurant on Sancus Rd. near Polaris mall, there has been a void in the Westerville/Worthington area (and Columbus for that matter) of Vietnamese food. Even when you do find it, it's sometimes combined with a mish mash Chinese menu to help makes ends meet. Sadly, sweet and sour chicken outsells Pho in Ohio.

At Mi Li Cafe (not to be confused with the My Lai massacre) in the Emporium Shopping Center (same one as the Columbus Bowling Palace) this mangled, mixed menu approach is nowhere to be found. Instead, they feature a 100% Vietnamese menu featuring a variety of Phos (meal-in-a-bowl noodle soup), soups, sandwiches (Banh Mi), crepes and grilled meat and rice or noodle dishes.

The first clue that I would enjoy this place was the sign in the window that reads "Always Fresh Noodle Soup". Talk about focused marketing.

The second was when the soup that one of the adjoining tables ordered was delivered in a bowl the size of half a beach ball.

After seeing the tub sized portions, I ordered the "small" size of Pho Tai Bo Vien (beef rice noodle soup with rare steak and meatballs). It was plenty big and was presented with a garnish plate of fresh sprouts, lime, sliced jalapenos, fresh mint and basil leaves. The idea is to shred the greens by hand and dump them into the soup along with the sprouts and jalapenos and finish it with a squeeze of lime. There is also a full compliment of hot sauces and fish sauce at every table for additional enhancement.

My soup was outstanding, although the beef slices were nowhere near "rare". The broth was complex and rich. Service was very prompt and friendly. 3 different servers kept checking on me and I got the feeling that the owners appreciated my business.

I noticed a dozen Vietnamese patrons coming in to pick up take out food and several more were eating in. This may be a clichéd observation but is nearly always a sign of authenticity.

All of the dishes coming out looked promising, especially the Banh Mi, which is a sub with sliced pork, mayo, pate, cucumbers, jalapenos, cilantro, and shredded carrots packed onto a crisp French Baguette.

Prices were in the $4.50 to $8.00 range and the beverage list included French coffee and Bubble drinks (and teas) which are fruit smoothies with a Tapioca "bubble" at the bottom. A "Happy Ending" of another sort.

Me likey Mi Li. It's nice to see a family run, non-chain option that sticks to its roots. Places like this deserve support and offer a more exotic experience than the mélange of bogus bistros like Max and Erma's, O'Charley's, Applebee's, TGI Fridays, etc., etc.

FOLLOW UP: A second visit bore out the good first impression. The grilled pork noodle dish, the seafood soup and the spring rolls were all outstanding.

RATING:5 BITES

5858 Emporium Square

614-899-9202