Mulan- Quick Look

"Upscale" Asian (read overpriced). Pei Wei or PJ Chang's wannabe- and who'd want to be either! Fancy decor but boring and expected menu choices.

Despite the exclamation point and all caps, none of the items designated HOT! on the menu were remotely spicy.

RATING: 2 BITES

50 Neverland Drive
Lewis Center, OH 43035
740-548-3861

Pizza House- Bye Bye American Pie

While running errands at lunchtime I found myself nearby this North Columbus standby, which I last visited (and enjoyed) 10 years ago.

At that time, they had won several "Best Pizza in Columbus" awards and my experience was positive. They featured a very airy, thin and light crust which is a hard thing to find in these parts. It didn't travel well for take out but served at the table, it was one of my favorites in Columbus.

I'm not sure what changed- the recipe or my aging taste buds- but this time around was a whole new ball of waxy mozzarella.

Certainly the location near the train tracks, the cinderblock building and the tacky interior have not changed. Neither has the menu, that I could tell. It lists the same old red sauce and pasta and pizza with assorted toppings you can find in every Italian-American joint from here to Hoboken. Not that that's a bad thing. A great red sauce is a thing of beauty and the straightforward but impeccably prepared pizzas like the ones found at Lombardi's in New York or Patsy's in New Haven, CT are the stuff of legends.

Of course everyone has a favorite style of pizza, that's part of the fun. Personally, I'm a Tommy's guy, but I appreciate the debate comparing Rotolo's, Iocanos, Plank's, Mellow Mushroom, Panzera's, Rubino's, etc., etc.

What's not debatable, at least in my mind, is the decline of Pizza House. My Pee Wee pizza (a personal sized lunch special) was frighteningly close to a microwave pizza from 7-11 in texture and taste. It was greasy, the cheese was rubbery (I'm guessing they use part-skim mozzarella) and the sauce was dark, almost brown, with a jar of Ragu-like sweetness. Worst of all, the crust had none of the characteristics of homemade, even though the web site claims they make their dough fresh every day. It was nice and thin but it had a texture like it was cooked in the pan with no blisters or flakiness. It made me think of a twist on the DiGiorno TV commercials, only the line would go: "Is this a frozen pizza? No, it's Pizza House!"

The side salad of tasteless Iceberg lettuce, white bread croutons and bottled Italian dressing, did nothing to placate my dismay.

They were quite busy, so there seems to be a following. Service was pleasant, if not slow, considering I chose a lunch special. The price was reasonable- $6.95 for a 7" mini-pizza, salad and drink.

Looking for something good to write about, I scoped out the pasta dishes being served to the other tables. They did not appear to feature home made pasta and if they contain the same sauce as the pizza, there would be more bad news.

So my search for the best pizza in Columbus continues- and currently ends- not at Pizza House but at my house. 

RATING: 2 BITES

 

747 East Lincoln Ave.
Columbus Ohio 43229
614-885-3121

Knead- Half Baked Concept, Well Done Food

Boy, is this place confusing.

Start with a logo and graphics reminiscent of Blimpie, add a faceless, generic brick building with a sterile decor of carpet squares and a drop ceiling and then do business under a name that has little or nothing to do with the food served here, and you have a marketing mess of a place.

Let's start with the name. When you eat at a restaurant called Knead, with a slogan that reads "Where all things are possible with dough", you kind of expect some emphasis on bread, or at least baking. Oddly, you'll find none of that at this popular Short North diner.

In fact, we were unable to find bread on the menu and none was brought to the table. They do serve pizza and the sandwiches come with buns (not made in-house and pretty ordinary), so technically there are  items offered made from flour and yeast but I found this very strange and more than a bit disingenuous.

The interior is another fake out. If you were to walk by this place and look in, you'd think it was fast food, with its bright red walls and the total lack of charm or warmth. I guess the theme is what they call "Modern Diner" but the concept is really about high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and care in preparation and this is not reflected in any of the trappings. I expected to find a rustic barn but found a strip mall.

Luckily, the food itself brings the concept to life, and in the end, that's what really matters. 7 out of 8 meals at our table where well-received and much of the fare being brought out to other tables looked good enough to snatch right off the tray.

I ordered the Tasty Tacos, which are made from organic Berkshire pork , corn tortillas, red cabbage slaw, jack cheese and Knead sauce, which is an excellent chili-based hot sauce with a sweet after taste. I ordered two more ramekins of the sauce to pass around it was so good. While I am by no means a health food or organic guy per say, I do believe organically fed livestock and fresh ingredients make a big difference in taste and these simple tacos bore that out. The pork was succulent and rich and could have stood alone as an entree without the tortilla and garnishes.

Friends at the table ordered the Cuban Sandwich (more Berkshire pork with ham, pickles, Amish Swiss cheese, and aioli on grilled pagnotta bread), Walleye Tacos ( a great use of the Ohio favorite fish), The Mother Clucker (a killer house specialty with Gerber chicken, cured bacon, roasted Poblano chile, aioli on a brioche bun) and assorted burgers made from Pat La Frieda beef and an interesting hodgepodge of toppings. The lone disappointment was the Skinny Chick (surprise!)-  a low cal chicken sandwich that was wimpy and dry.

A side dish worth mentioning are the French fries. Thinly hand cut and fried in peanut oil, they were addictive and among the best I've ever tasted- and that includes the real deal in France and Belgium. Try them with the fennel-infused house catsup.

A surprising, but welcome, aspect of Knead is the emphasis on booze. I didn't expect this in a diner. They offer an excellent assortment of micro brewed beers and a dizzying (literally) array of cocktails, some classic, some retro, some kooky, like the Jalapeno Hemingway (rum, peppers, lime juice, sugar), Black Eye (101 Wild Turkey, Benedictine, Organic Black Cherry and sweet & sour) and dozen more interesting variations of Manhattans, Old Fashions, Gin Fizzes, etc.

Service was prompt but ill-informed (both servers were unable to tell us what the ingredients were in the previously mentioned "Knead Sauce", even after asking the kitchen!) and the prices were more than fair, given the high quality of the food. Our tab for 2 with several expensive drinks each, was $59.

Being a cheapskate, that is reason enough for me to return and I look forward to trying the pizza, enchiladas and something enticingly called "Lou's Meat Sandwich". And maybe some home made bread?

RATING: 4 BITES

 

505 N. High St.

Columbus, OH 43215

614-228-6323

Mi Li Cafe- Souped Up Vietnamese

With the demise of the excellent Ha Long restaurant on Sancus Rd. near Polaris mall, there has been a void in the Westerville/Worthington area (and Columbus for that matter) of Vietnamese food. Even when you do find it, it's sometimes combined with a mish mash Chinese menu to help makes ends meet. Sadly, sweet and sour chicken outsells Pho in Ohio.

At Mi Li Cafe (not to be confused with the My Lai massacre) in the Emporium Shopping Center (same one as the Columbus Bowling Palace) this mangled, mixed menu approach is nowhere to be found. Instead, they feature a 100% Vietnamese menu featuring a variety of Phos (meal-in-a-bowl noodle soup), soups, sandwiches (Banh Mi), crepes and grilled meat and rice or noodle dishes.

The first clue that I would enjoy this place was the sign in the window that reads "Always Fresh Noodle Soup". Talk about focused marketing.

The second was when the soup that one of the adjoining tables ordered was delivered in a bowl the size of half a beach ball.

After seeing the tub sized portions, I ordered the "small" size of Pho Tai Bo Vien (beef rice noodle soup with rare steak and meatballs). It was plenty big and was presented with a garnish plate of fresh sprouts, lime, sliced jalapenos, fresh mint and basil leaves. The idea is to shred the greens by hand and dump them into the soup along with the sprouts and jalapenos and finish it with a squeeze of lime. There is also a full compliment of hot sauces and fish sauce at every table for additional enhancement.

My soup was outstanding, although the beef slices were nowhere near "rare". The broth was complex and rich. Service was very prompt and friendly. 3 different servers kept checking on me and I got the feeling that the owners appreciated my business.

I noticed a dozen Vietnamese patrons coming in to pick up take out food and several more were eating in. This may be a clichéd observation but is nearly always a sign of authenticity.

All of the dishes coming out looked promising, especially the Banh Mi, which is a sub with sliced pork, mayo, pate, cucumbers, jalapenos, cilantro, and shredded carrots packed onto a crisp French Baguette.

Prices were in the $4.50 to $8.00 range and the beverage list included French coffee and Bubble drinks (and teas) which are fruit smoothies with a Tapioca "bubble" at the bottom. A "Happy Ending" of another sort.

Me likey Mi Li. It's nice to see a family run, non-chain option that sticks to its roots. Places like this deserve support and offer a more exotic experience than the mélange of bogus bistros like Max and Erma's, O'Charley's, Applebee's, TGI Fridays, etc., etc.

FOLLOW UP: A second visit bore out the good first impression. The grilled pork noodle dish, the seafood soup and the spring rolls were all outstanding.

RATING:5 BITES

5858 Emporium Square

614-899-9202

Flying Pizza- Quick Look

Still the only thing close to NY style slices in Columbus. The Bethel Rd. location has new owners and they shrunk the size of the slice by about 40%. Bad move.

The campus location is now called Slice of New York. Seems to be the same recipe.

RATING: 3 BITES

5126 Bethel Center Mall

(614) 457-2323

1812 N. High St.

(614) 294-1011

 

La Casita- More A Siesta Than A Meal

I'm a Mexican food junkie and I have a soft spot for small, non-chain spots, so I'll try nearly any place on a whim, especially for a quick lunch.

Like a real junkie, the quality of your fix can vary, and when it's good, it's really good, but when it's bad, it's a downer. La Casita is a bummer, man.

I'm not sure how many more free chips and salsa, combination plate and margarita places this market can accommodate but each one reminds me that as a group, diners in Ohio are not terribly discriminating when it comes to Mexican cuisine. Paint a stucco building in bright colors, hang a few sombreros and pinatas and they will come. The food always seems to be an afterthought and copy cat menu planning is rampant. Taco plates, cheese enchiladas, chimichangas, burritos, ay yay yay!

I'm not dissing Tex-Mex, or even the lowly burrito, as I've lived in Colorado and New Mexico and have eaten my fair share of low-brow, but excellent Mexican chow. The river of melted cheese and starchy sauces over some sort of dried out protein that passes for Mexican food in this area is just not very inspiring. 

Unfortunately, La Casita is only one of dozens of crappy places like Acapulco in the Polaris area, Fiesta Jalisco at 161 & Cleveland Ave., and the truly horrifying Las Margaritas in UA, Westerville (and other unfortunate neighborhoods), that are springing up in everywhere thanks to the success of the evil El Vaquero chain. The name La Casita is supposed to mean "small house." I think it really means "small concept."

So I guess this is less a review of La Casita and more of an indictment of the genre as a whole. While I kind of recall greasy, overcooked chips, a rubbery chile relleno, tasteless fish tacos and a tamale with a 5/1 ratio of masa (corn flour) to cold, shredded pork, it's hard to be more specific, as I don't remember much else. 

Which is, of course, the point I'd like to make. This type of food isn't exciting and with all the vivid spices and interesting combinations of flavors that are available, that's a shame.

Maybe Montezuma's real revenge was to bore us all to death.


RATING: 1 BITE

1355 Bethel Road
614-457-0823

Mazah- Quick Look

Middle Eastern food (not a gyro joint!) in Grandview, made from scratch by family owners. More variety and better than the nearby Aladdin. Makes healthy eating tolerable.

RATING: 4 BITES

1439 Grandview Ave.

614-488-3633

Q2 Bistro- Not A Me Too

Chinese restaurants in Columbus are a dime a dozen, or should I say 0.632101 yuan a dozen, and are remarkably unmemorable. I like Asian foods so much that I'll even tolerate odious places like China Dynasty in the Lane Avenue shopping center or Eastern Bay on Riverside Dr., but compared to real Chinatown establishments in NY, SF or Toronto, etc., I'm left largely unimpressed, if not full.

To stand out in this bland crowd, you have to either be willing to serve more authentic food with exotic ingredients, which turns off many squeamish Midwesterners, or do the basics better. Q2 Bistro chose the latter.

It's evident as soon as you walk in that details are important to the owners, as they've tastefully decorated the small space with bare concrete floors (countered with acoustic sound-absorbing ceiling panels), light, modern woods and a serene bamboo-jungle motif. They are also unfailingly friendly and prompt, which is unheard of in the aforementioned Chinatowns and you will never wait long, even when they are busy.

The stylish interior and attractive servers are deceptive, as it may lead you to believe that the menu is trendy. It is not. In fact, it's not really authentic Chinese, but few suburban American Chinese restaurants are.

You'll find the norms like egg rolls, spring rolls, hot & sour soup, dumplings, etc. on the appetizer menu and entrees that include vegetarian dishes, various stir-fried medleys, noodle dishes, Sesame, Orange and General Tso's chicken, along with Korean-style casseroles of rice, meat and vegetables served with a spring roll in a cast iron pot (not to be confused with Chinese Hot Pot, which is a spicy, hot broth served family-style in a large pot that you dip various meats, seafood and condiments into).

I don't mean to imply that the menu is boring (there are lots of hot & spicy choices) or limited (I've only listed a few items) but rather, that they have chosen to serve things that they know will appeal and they do them very well- and that's a good thing.

What you'll also find is that each of these simple dishes are extraordinarily fresh. Veggies are always crunchy, sauces are light and the food is always steaming hot, right from the wok with less oil than is typical. Behind the curtain in the small kitchen, someone is paying close attention and it shows.

I can be a creature of habit, so when I find something I like, I tend to order it often. The good thing about this is that it allows me to judge consistency and Q2 is consistent to an extreme. In 20 visits or so, they have never let me down.

The Firecracker Chicken (white meat chicken stir fry with jalapeno, green and red pepper in spicy soy sauce), Mongolian Trio (Tiger shrimp, beef, and chicken sauteed with white and green onions in spicy and aromatic soy sauce), the Spicy Hoyu Medley in the pot (Tiger shrimp, beef and chicken stir fry with celery and onion in oyster sauce) and the Pad Thai are all favorites. Their spin on hot and sour soup is also interesting as it has a slight, lingering sweetness not typically found.

Portions are  medium large. Prices are fair with most entrees in the $5-7 range (lunch). Hopefully this will not change, however, a recent visit revealed a dinner/Happy Hour special banner in the window, which is not good sign. This can mean that the dinner business is slow and that's where a good portion of the profits can come from, as the meals are marked up higher and more drinks are sold. I hope this is not the case and that this small, one-of-a-kind business can make it in the food chain hell that the Polaris area is.

RATING: 4 Bites

472 Polaris Pkwy.

Westerville, OH 43082

614-898-1988

472 Polaris Parkw3082

614.898.198

Wholly Joe's= Holy Cow!

As close as Columbus is to Chicago, you'd think that there would be more "Chicago-style" joints. I used to get my fix at O'Hare Airport in between flights by grabbing a Chicago dog at one of the carts in the concourse. Now I go to Wholly Joe's in Lewis Center.

The name is puzzling, as it doesn't really broadcast "Chicago" but no one has ever accused restaurateurs of being great marketers, as a group. Many survive despite themselves.

Located in a strip mall on Powell Rd., west of Polaris Mall, this family run place is pretty non-descript. There's a hint of nostalgic 50s diner decor, which really has nothing to do with Chicago per say, but decor isn't important when you're in a fit of craving.

And it is easy to crave the mainstays here. The Chicago style dogs are authentically plump and come complete with a poppy seed bun, a pickle plank, cucumbers, sport peppers, relish, tomato, onions and the wildly bright yellow mustard that leaves permanent stains. It's hard to get your mouth around one when they are loaded. They offer a few other variations such as a cheese dog and Polish dog but those are irrelevant to purists.

The Italian beef sandwich is satisfying but not up to the quality of the famed Mr. Beef on Orleans St. in Chicago- but few are- plus this is the only show in town, as far as I know. It's thinly sliced, marinated roast beef served on a French bread-like club roll. Go for the Extra Juicy or Juicy versions to get the full sloppy effect and don't forget the hot peppers. Like a Philly cheese steak, it's best to not mess with the traditional version.

Other menu items include the expected Italian sausage, Polish sausage, hamburgers, fries, etc. and the usual lame attempt at "healthier" choices like salads and grilled chicken sandwiches.

The sleepers here are the onion rings. Not super thin like an onion brick but not inner tube-sized with a soggy interior onion, these are Panko breadcrumb batter covered and deep fried to order. Perfectly crispy, salty, sweet and ideal for dipping in ketchup.

I confess to not having had a chance to try the deep dish pizza, as it is served after 5 pm only and I'm a lunch diner here. My bad. It looks to be well made, as the dough is made on premises and it takes 40 minutes to prepare. Maybe I'll get one to go for dinner soon.

For displaced Chicagoans and fast food junkies alike, Wholly Joe's is the Holy Grail.

RATING: 4 Bites

1182 East Powell Road  

Lewis Center, OH 43035-8618

(614) 430-9441

Carfagna's- Quick Look

Basic Goomba Italian. Counter service by nice people. So-so red sauce, good Wedding Soup, excellent balsamic house dressing. Pizza is wood-fired but boring. Polaris area.

RATING: 2 Bites

2125 Polaris Pkwy.
Columbus, OH 43240
(614) 848-4488

Wings Over Columbus- Quick Look

Slightly bigger wings (but not giant like Rooster's) and better than BW3. Nice selection of sauces and rubs. The "Afterburner" sauce is really hot. Can order online. Lane Ave. in UA.

RATING: 3 bites

1315 W Lane Ave 
Columbus, OH 43221-3538. 
(614) 488-WING (9464)

Taqueria El Paso- Leave Your Comfort Zona

The only exposure most people in Columbus have to Mexican food is via chains like El Vaquero, or one of the many strip mall equivalents. Many order by number, afraid to mispronounce something and end up with a giant plate of bubbling, greasy cheese covering whatever. After a few margaritas maybe it doesn't matter how terrible the food is. 

With all of the migrant workers and our growing Mexican population, it's surprising that the Columbus area doesn't have more choices but there are a few, small, family run places like Taqueria El Paso to try if you can go outside your comfort zone.

I stumbled on this place a few years back while running an errand on Rt. 161 near Karl Rd. It's tucked away on the west side of the street behind some cheap steak house.

When you walk in, you may notice that you are the only non-Mexican but in my book that's good. The servers may not speak English but the menu has pictures and everyone is very friendly. The surreal daytime Mexican game shows on the TV is an added bonus.

The place has a diner feel, as there is a lunch counter and an open kitchen (which I perceive as a learning opportunity) and red vinyl booths.

As the name implies, they serve tacos but they are the "street taco" variety which are smaller than Taco Bell size with warm, soft corn tortillas and sliced or shredded meats, not hamburger. I normally go with the carnitas (pork), or asada (beef). Order at least 2 per person.

Tacos Al Pastor are a specialty. These are made from marinated, salted pork sliced from a gyro-type chunk and garnished with a variety of stuff like cilantro or even pineapple. I found them a bit too salty, almost like ham, but hey, I'm a white boy.

Other entrees includes tortas, which are sandwiches on a white bread roll stuffed with meats and lettuce, enchiladas with queso ranchero (a mild Mexican cheese) and a variety of seafood platters. It's easy to forget that Mexico has thousands of miles of coastline and seafood is a big part of real south-of-the-border cuisine.

I especially like the refried beans. They have a richness and creaminess that comes from using lard. The fact is that fat is where lots of flavor comes from and you'll find it in much of the food here.

Try a Jarritos (carbonated fruit flavored soda) too, just for fun. They come in an old school Tab-like bottle and are nuclear colored.

The more places like this get some mainstream support, the more diverse and authentic our dining choices become. So next time you are craving Mexican food, don't reach for a can of Old El Paso, try Taqueria El Paso.

RATING: 3 Bites 

1784 E Dublin Granville Rd

Columbus, OH 43229

(614) 523-2256

 

Asian Garden Buffet- You go now!

 

All you can eat Chinese buffets in strip malls are as ubiquitous as Starbucks and are normally something to be avoided like a STD.

The appeal of variety is irresistible but the execution is typically sketchy. The volume just isn't there for them to be able to refresh the steam tables, so it just sits. When the pans are eventually refreshed, it's usually best to look away when the kitchen door swings open and Grandpa Wang scrambles out or you may see produce sitting on dirty floors or piles of unrefrigerated meat waiting to be chopped.

If I haven't spoiled your appetite, consider a rare buffet of merit- Asian Garden on Rt.23 (High St.) just north of Powell Rd. in the Wal-Mart center.

I've been eating here for 8 years and they have consistently and competently served a wide variety of fresh food, soups, salads with nice perks like a build-your-own Mongolian Barbeque, peel-and-eat shrimp and sushi both no additional cost to the $6.95 per person tab (minus drink).

They have the volume to keep the food coming as evidenced by the parade of construction workers, landscapers and local office personnel that tramp through at lunch time. But despite its popularity, I have never waited for a table.

The decor is typically tacky but it is spacious and clean, including the rest room.

Even though this is a serve yourself buffet, there is drink service by shy, right off the boat, servers. They are super quick and they never fail to clear your plate to make room for another and refill your drink.

There are 24-30 varieties of Chinese appetizers, soups and entrees, 6 American entrees and a complete salad bar. The Mongolian Barbeque offers 4 different meats and a dozen veggies and noodles for the chef to stir fry on the giant cook top. Ring the bell if there is no one at the station and the cook will appear. Tip him $1.

Desert is included but the ice cream machine churns out mostly crushed ice with little vanilla, chocolate or diary product and the cakes and custards are awful. Stick with the fortune cookie, as it's doubtful you'll have room for desert anyway. How do you think Buddha got so fat?

This is not "authentic" Chinese (although I have seen have a number of Chinese families and large groups eating here) and don't expect anything exotic or spicy (they do have 3 kinds of chili at the salad bar, plus kimchi and squid) but take it for what it is- basics that most Americans like, done well.

With no viable dim sum places in the area- where you can sample lots of dishes cheaply, Asian Garden fills the bill when you're Jonesing for oriental "comfort" foods.

RATING: 3 Bites 

8633 Columbus Pike 
Lewis Center, OH

(740) 549-1888

Third & Hollywood- Not A "B" Movie

For a long time I avoided this place. First because of the location. Every city has a few buildings that seems to be jinxed and no matter what goes in it fails. This location seemed like one of those and it scared me off. Then, the name and the stylized art deco logo made me believe that it was a Hollywood/movie themed place and that seemed tacky.

Turns out the name was inspired by two streets that intersect nearby, Hollywood Place and Third Ave and there is no movie theme. Question for management: Why confuse the public?

In the end, I heard enough good things about the food that it merited a visit. Gladly, I didn't find a Walk of Fame sidewalk or a gift shop in the lobby with T-shirts and posters of Humphrey Bogart.

The building in question has a warm, homey feel with lots of stone and wood and a high exposed ceiling with big wood rafters. This was originally an auto showroom and garage in the 1940s. The flip side of the high ceilings is the noise level can be very high, especially with the omnipresent frenetic jazz that plays non-stop- even during Sunday brunch. Turn it down please.

The layout remains largely intact from the Gibby's days- one big open lodge-like room- with the addition of a partition between the bar area and the dinner tables and an exposed kitchen. There is some outside seating under an awning but it is severely cramped. Too bad, as it's a fairly quiet neighborhood and it would be a nice place to eat alfresco.

The menu was another source of confusion, as at first glance it is very, very ordinary, bordering on a basic bar menu. There's humdrum choices like chili, pimento chip & dip, Cobb salad, fish sandwich, hamburger, etc. at prices that are double what you'd expect.

Which leads me to a general price rant. When did mediocre wine start costing $10-15 a glass? This has become an epidemic that drives dinner prices into the $100+ for two in places that don't warrant that kind of expense, including Third & Hollywood. Pricing for both wine and food does seem on the high side, especially for brunch.

So I wondered why is everyone raving about a place that seems to serve overpriced basics?

Thankfully, the plainness of the offerings is belied by the high quality of the ingredients and the skill in preparing them. They know what they are doing in the kitchen, if not on the marketing side.

In two visits, we sampled the grilled fish sandwich (fresh grouper), the hanger steak, the hamburger (1/2 lb. ground fresh daily), the scallops, the shaved radicchio and arugula salad and the cheddar herb biscuits. Every dish was perfectly prepared, spot on, A+, 5 stars.

The fish filet on the sandwich was remarkable- fresh and moist- and is worthy of being an entree outside of the boring bun it came on and the sublime cheddar biscuits are so rich and savory that you have to be careful or you may find yourself drooling like you just came from the dentist. Compliments on the shaved salad too. The sweet, deep fried onion bits contrasted perfectly with the bitter greens and vinaigrette. I've since knocked off the recipe and serve it at home.

The open kitchen inspired confidence and the parade of other dishes that passed us on the way to other tables were enticing, certainly enough to tempt another visit. I do think there is room for innovation on the menu and hopefully, over time, they can be more inventive. Certainly the chef is capable of stepping up.

Maybe others are not as confused as I was with the name (Am I over thinking this?) and the menu and they will recognize Third & Hollywood for the, um, star that it is.

RATING: 4 Bites

1433 W. Third Ave.

Grandview Heights, OH 43212

614-488-0303

The Rossi- They Keep It Simple Stupid

You can't build or design authenticity or patina, it just has to happen over time. Or not. Just ask New Albany.

While The Rossi in the Short North has only been there for 10 years or less, it has always felt like part of the neighborhood to me. Somehow appropriate in every way and reflective of the residents and the vibe without being trendy. No small feat.

It's not fancy but it's not a dive bar. It's not cheap but it's a good value. It's not hip but it's stylish. In a word, it's relaxing. You don't have to stress about what you order because the menu doesn't change much, so you don't need a description from the server or bartender and you know it will be good. They keep it simple and real.

The menu is succinct and lacks cute foodie fare but instead offers stuff of substance like Braised Pork Belly, Winter Roasted Chicken with Chorizo Sweet Potato Stuffing, Butternut Squash Soup, and Pork & Beans (a pork chop with braised Corona beans). And some very good handmade pizza and the popular Club185 cheeseburger.

The decor is warm, with exposed brick and authentic Deco-era dark wood. Mixed drinks feel most appropriate, as it is very much a bar. Bordering on community service, they serve food until 1:00 a.m. every night, including Sunday. Smart.

One complaint is the cramped quarters on the bar side of the building. Very small tables, very close together and 2 tiny one holer restrooms. I find the bar to be more comfortable and you may avoid the wait for a table.

The name tells you all you need to know. The Rossi Bar & Kitchen. Not The Rossi, A Unique Contemporary Dining and Drinking Experience. The French would call it a brasserie, the Italians an osteria. I call it genuine.

RATING: 4 Bites

895 N. High St.

Columbus, OH 43215

614-299-2810

Schmidt's- Offal In A Good Way

What better place to start a Columbus restaurant review blog than by featuring a Columbus institution? Schmidt's Sausage Haus und Restaurant is first up.

Located in German Village, on the end of a cobbled lane adjacent to the companion Fudge Haus (no gay jokes please, people are trying to eat), Schmidt's looks like a Brother's Grimm story setting- minus the fairy tale ending (the bill). Think wooden plank floors, giant beer steins, exposed brick and beer barrels on the walls.

As the name indicates, and thousands of diners already know, this is German food, in all its porky glory. They've been proudly clogging arteries here for over a 100 years, and guten for them. The world has enough low cal wrap places like Cosi. You have to admire a place that wears its heart attack on its sleeve by showing off their huge cream puffs in a glass display as you enter. Good merchandising too. Imagine how many impatient, screaming kids have been placated with the promise of one of these?

The cream puffs don't just look good, they are a cannonball of mushy love. The a la carte entrees and buffet items we sampled were well prepared and specialties included the usual German suspects- schnitzel, sauerbraten, spaetzle, potato pancakes, etc., plus their well-known, made-in-house bratwurst and Bahama Mama that you see at fairs, sporting venues and in the grocery store. I recommend the meat loaf- it's soft, dense and contains pork, along with beef and breadcrumbs. I didn't find the buffet to be too impressive or an especially good value- a few sausages, meatloaf, mac and cheese, potato salad.

Service was timely and friendly, even though the place was packed.

Predictably, ambiance is lacking- it's very bright and noisy. As an over-the-top theme restaurant it's not surprising to see the Euro bogus decor, silly server costumes and an Oom Pah band of fat old guys in lederhosen. What might surprise you are the prices.

Let's face it, entrails and potatoes aren't expensive, but dinner entrees here average $11-15 and a 16 oz. beer (the excellent Hofbrau lager) is $7.50. We got dinged for $120 with tip for a table of 5. For these kind of prices, you should get free Lipitor.

Even though I'm unlikely to eat at a place like this all that often, I'm glad that a one-off family run place like Schmidt's that actually makes things from scratch exists rather than another TGI O'Murphys. Where else are you going to take your visiting Aunt Edna?

RATING: 3 Bites

240 East Kossuth Street 
Columbus, OH 43206-2188

(614) 444-6808

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