While running errands at lunchtime I found myself nearby this North Columbus standby, which I last visited (and
enjoyed) 10 years ago.
At
that time, they had won several "Best Pizza in Columbus" awards and
my experience was positive. They featured a very airy, thin and light crust
which is a hard thing to find in these parts. It didn't travel well for take
out but served at the table, it was one of my favorites in Columbus.
I'm
not sure what changed- the recipe or my aging taste buds- but this time around
was a whole new ball of waxy mozzarella.
Certainly
the location near the train tracks, the cinderblock building and the tacky
interior have not changed. Neither has the menu, that I could tell. It lists
the same old red sauce and pasta and pizza with assorted toppings you can find
in every Italian-American joint from here to Hoboken. Not that that's a bad
thing. A great red sauce is a thing of beauty and the straightforward but
impeccably prepared pizzas like the ones found at Lombardi's in New York or
Patsy's in New Haven, CT are the stuff of legends.
Of
course everyone has a favorite style of pizza, that's part of the fun. Personally,
I'm a Tommy's guy, but I appreciate the debate comparing Rotolo's, Iocanos, Plank's,
Mellow Mushroom, Panzera's, Rubino's, etc., etc.
What's
not debatable, at least in my mind, is the decline of Pizza House. My Pee
Wee pizza (a personal sized lunch special) was frighteningly close to a
microwave pizza from 7-11 in texture and taste. It was greasy, the cheese was
rubbery (I'm guessing they use part-skim mozzarella) and the sauce was dark,
almost brown, with a jar of Ragu-like sweetness. Worst of all, the crust had
none of the characteristics of homemade, even though the web site claims they
make their dough fresh every day. It was nice and thin but it had a texture
like it was cooked in the pan with no blisters or flakiness. It made me think
of a twist on the DiGiorno TV commercials, only the line would go: "Is this a frozen pizza? No, it's Pizza
House!"
The
side salad of tasteless Iceberg lettuce, white bread croutons and bottled
Italian dressing, did nothing to placate my dismay.
They
were quite busy, so there seems to be a following. Service was pleasant, if not
slow, considering I chose a lunch special. The price was reasonable- $6.95
for a 7" mini-pizza, salad and drink.
Looking
for something good to write about, I scoped out the pasta dishes being served
to the other tables. They did not appear to feature home made pasta and if they
contain the same sauce as the pizza, there would be more bad news.
So
my search for the best pizza in Columbus continues- and currently ends- not at Pizza House but at my house.
RATING: 2 BITES
747 East Lincoln Ave.
Columbus Ohio 43229
614-885-3121
