Boy, is this place confusing.
Start with a logo and graphics reminiscent of Blimpie, add a faceless, generic brick building with a sterile decor of carpet squares and a drop ceiling
and then do business under a name that has little or nothing to do with the food
served here, and you have a marketing mess of a place.
Let's start with the name. When you eat at a restaurant
called Knead, with a slogan that reads "Where all things are possible with
dough", you kind of expect some emphasis on bread, or at least baking.
Oddly, you'll find none of that at this popular Short North diner.
In fact, we were unable to find bread on the menu and none
was brought to the table. They do serve pizza and the sandwiches come with buns
(not made in-house and pretty ordinary), so technically there are items offered made from flour and yeast but I found this
very strange and more than a bit disingenuous.
The interior is another fake out. If you were to walk by
this place and look in, you'd think it was fast food, with its bright red walls
and the total lack of charm or warmth. I guess the theme is what
they call "Modern Diner" but the concept is really about
high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and care in preparation and this is
not reflected in any of the trappings. I expected to find a rustic barn but found a strip mall.
Luckily, the food itself brings the concept to life, and in
the end, that's what really matters. 7 out of 8 meals at our table where
well-received and much of the fare being brought out to other tables looked
good enough to snatch right off the tray.
I ordered the Tasty Tacos, which are made from organic Berkshire pork , corn tortillas, red cabbage slaw, jack cheese and Knead sauce, which is
an excellent chili-based hot sauce with a sweet after taste. I ordered two more
ramekins of the sauce to pass around it was so good. While I am by no means a
health food or organic guy per say, I do believe organically fed livestock and
fresh ingredients make a big difference in taste and these simple tacos bore
that out. The pork was succulent and rich and could have stood alone as an entree
without the tortilla and garnishes.
Friends at the table ordered the Cuban Sandwich (more
Berkshire pork with ham, pickles, Amish Swiss cheese, and aioli on grilled
pagnotta bread), Walleye Tacos ( a great use of the Ohio favorite fish), The
Mother Clucker (a killer house specialty with Gerber chicken, cured bacon,
roasted Poblano chile, aioli on a brioche bun) and assorted burgers made from
Pat La Frieda beef and an interesting hodgepodge of toppings. The lone disappointment
was the Skinny Chick (surprise!)- a
low cal chicken sandwich that was wimpy and dry.
A side dish worth mentioning are the French fries. Thinly
hand cut and fried in peanut oil, they were addictive and among the best I've
ever tasted- and that includes the real deal in France and Belgium. Try them
with the fennel-infused house catsup.
A surprising, but welcome, aspect of Knead is the emphasis on booze. I didn't expect this in a diner. They offer an excellent assortment of micro
brewed beers and a dizzying (literally) array of cocktails, some classic, some retro, some
kooky, like the Jalapeno Hemingway (rum, peppers, lime juice, sugar), Black
Eye (101 Wild Turkey, Benedictine, Organic Black Cherry and sweet & sour)
and dozen more interesting variations of Manhattans, Old Fashions, Gin Fizzes,
etc.
Service was prompt but ill-informed (both servers were
unable to tell us what the ingredients were in the previously mentioned
"Knead Sauce", even after asking the kitchen!) and the prices were
more than fair, given the high quality of the food. Our tab for 2 with several expensive
drinks each, was $59.
Being a cheapskate, that is reason enough for me to return
and I look forward to trying the pizza, enchiladas and something enticingly called "Lou's
Meat Sandwich". And maybe some home made bread?
RATING: 4 BITES
505 N. High St.
Columbus, OH 43215
614-228-6323
