As close as Columbus is to Chicago, you'd think that there would be more "Chicago-style" joints. I used to get my fix at O'Hare Airport in between flights by grabbing a Chicago dog at one of the carts in the concourse. Now I go to Wholly Joe's in Lewis Center.
The name is puzzling, as it doesn't really broadcast "Chicago" but no one has ever accused restaurateurs of being great marketers, as a group. Many survive despite themselves.
Located in a strip mall on Powell Rd., west of Polaris Mall, this family run place is pretty non-descript. There's a hint of nostalgic 50s diner decor, which really has nothing to do with Chicago per say, but decor isn't important when you're in a fit of craving.
And it is easy to crave the mainstays here. The Chicago style dogs are authentically plump and come complete with a poppy seed bun, a pickle plank, cucumbers, sport peppers, relish, tomato, onions and the wildly bright yellow mustard that leaves permanent stains. It's hard to get your mouth around one when they are loaded. They offer a few other variations such as a cheese dog and Polish dog but those are irrelevant to purists.
The Italian beef sandwich is satisfying but not up to the quality of the famed Mr. Beef on Orleans St. in Chicago- but few are- plus this is the only show in town, as far as I know. It's thinly sliced, marinated roast beef served on a French bread-like club roll. Go for the Extra Juicy or Juicy versions to get the full sloppy effect and don't forget the hot peppers. Like a Philly cheese steak, it's best to not mess with the traditional version.
Other menu items include the expected Italian sausage, Polish sausage, hamburgers, fries, etc. and the usual lame attempt at "healthier" choices like salads and grilled chicken sandwiches.
The sleepers here are the onion rings. Not super thin like an onion brick but not inner tube-sized with a soggy interior onion, these are Panko breadcrumb batter covered and deep fried to order. Perfectly crispy, salty, sweet and ideal for dipping in ketchup.
I confess to not having had a chance to try the deep dish pizza, as it
is served after 5 pm only and I'm a lunch diner here. My bad. It looks to be
well made, as the dough is made on premises and it takes 40 minutes to
prepare. Maybe I'll get one to go for dinner soon.
For displaced Chicagoans and fast food junkies alike, Wholly Joe's is the Holy Grail.
RATING: 4 Bites
1182 East Powell Road
Lewis Center, OH 43035-8618
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