Wednesday

Taqueria El Paso- Leave Your Comfort Zona

The only exposure most people in Columbus have to Mexican food is via chains like El Vaquero, or one of the many strip mall equivalents. Many order by number, afraid to mispronounce something and end up with a giant plate of bubbling, greasy cheese covering whatever. After a few margaritas maybe it doesn't matter how terrible the food is. 

With all of the migrant workers and our growing Mexican population, it's surprising that the Columbus area doesn't have more choices but there are a few, small, family run places like Taqueria El Paso to try if you can go outside your comfort zone.


I stumbled on this place a few years back while running an errand on Rt. 161 near Karl Rd. It's tucked away on the west side of the street behind some cheap steak house.


When you walk in, you may notice that you are the only non-Mexican but in my book that's good. The servers may not speak English but the menu has pictures and everyone is very friendly. The
surreal daytime Mexican game shows on the TV is an added bonus.

The place has a diner feel, as there is a lunch counter and an open kitchen (which I perceive as a learning opportunity) and red vinyl booths.


As the name implies, they serve tacos but they are the "street taco" variety which are smaller than Taco Bell size with warm, soft corn tortillas and sliced or shredded meats, not hamburger. I normally go with the carnitas (pork), or asada (beef). Order at least 2 per person.


Tacos Al Pastor are a specialty. These are made from marinated, salted pork sliced from a gyro-type chunk and garnished with a variety of stuff like cilantro or even pineapple. I found them a bit too salty, almost like ham, but hey, I'm a white boy.


Other entrees includes tortas, which are sandwiches on a white bread roll stuffed with meats and lettuce, enchiladas with queso ranchero (a mild Mexican cheese) and a variety of seafood platters. It's easy to forget that Mexico has thousands of miles of coastline and seafood is a big part of real south-of-the-border cuisine.


I especially like the refried beans. They have a richness and creaminess that comes from using lard. The fact is that fat is where lots of flavor comes from and you'll find it in much of the food here.


Try a Jarritos (carbonated fruit flavored soda) too, just for fun. They come in an old school Tab-like bottle and are nuclear colored.


The more places like this get some mainstream support, the more diverse and authentic our dining choices become. So next time you are craving Mexican food, don't reach for a can of Old El Paso, try Taqueria El Paso.

RATING: 3 Bites 
1784 E Dublin Granville Rd Map
Columbus, OH 43229

(614) 523-2256

 

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