You
can't build or design authenticity or patina, it just has to happen over time. Or
not. Just ask New Albany.
While
The Rossi in the Short North has only been there for 10 years or less, it has
always felt like part of the neighborhood to me. Somehow appropriate in every
way and reflective of the residents and the vibe without being trendy. No small
feat.
It's
not fancy but it's not a dive bar. It's not cheap but it's a good value. It's
not hip but it's stylish. In a word, it's relaxing. You don't have to stress
about what you order because the menu doesn't change much, so you don't need a
description from the server or bartender and you know it will be good. They keep it simple and real.
The
menu is succinct and lacks cute foodie fare but instead offers stuff of
substance like Braised Pork Belly, Winter Roasted Chicken with Chorizo Sweet
Potato Stuffing, Butternut Squash Soup, and Pork & Beans (a pork chop with
braised Corona beans). And some very good handmade pizza and the popular Club185 cheeseburger.
The
decor is warm, with exposed brick and authentic Deco-era dark wood. Mixed
drinks feel most appropriate, as it is very much a bar. Bordering on community
service, they serve food until 1:00 a.m. every night, including Sunday. Smart.
One
complaint is the cramped quarters on the bar side of the building. Very small
tables, very close together and 2 tiny one holer restrooms. I find the bar to be more comfortable and you may avoid the wait for a table.
The
name tells you all you need to know. The Rossi Bar & Kitchen. Not The
Rossi, A Unique Contemporary Dining and Drinking Experience. The French would
call it a brasserie, the Italians an osteria. I call it genuine.
RATING: 4 Bites
895 N. High St.
Columbus, OH 43215
614-299-2810
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